Aesthetic VideoSource

Hair removal is, by nature, an intimate process. Whether it is an eyebrow tweezing, a bikini laser session or perhaps a back wax for a man, hair removal inspires feelings of sensitivity in almost everyone. This is one reason why spas work hard to develop good rapport and relationships with their clients—to develop an atmosphere of trust that will foster the faith that the esthetician will give the client a great service every time.

However, it’s also important to keep up with the latest in hair removal services to provide clients with current offerings from which to choose. “Hair removal is such an intimate thing, clients want to work with someone they feel comfortable with. They want it to be done as quickly and painlessly as possible,” says Heidi Lamar, owner of The Lamar Everyday Spa in Scottsdale, Arizona. “Finding someone you trust and feel comfortable with usually leads to better results.” Of course, for the client, results are ultimately what it is all about.

Hair removal has become a normal part of the beauty regimen for many; not just women, but also men, teens and athletes. Although this expands your client base, it also leads to more customers who want the service done right, every time. “It has just become an extension of what our clients do—a natural part of health and taking care of themselves. This is the best environment for hair removal to be performed, where it’s calm and peaceful and they are familiar with their esthetician and the surroundings. It doesn’t make sense for people to go somewhere else to have hair removal done,” says Lamar.

But to make sure it’s your spa people keep coming back to, you need to not only offer a trustworthy atmosphere, but also high-quality treatments, as well as safety, a large array of options and, perhaps most importantly, the convenience that just isn’t available through home hair removal. “Our hair removal services are quick, effortless and just better than trying to do it on your own, especially since men can’t usually reach their own backs,” jokes Rebecca Dayan, an esthetician with Emerge Spa & Salon in Boston.
Steady waxing

As a standard hair removal treatment, waxing still appears to be a leader in a spa’s arsenal against unwanted hair. Techniques, supplies, wax types and areas to treat continue to evolve, and smart spa owners are watching for trends on the horizon. “For women, the brow, lip and chin tend to be the most popular, followed pretty closely by the Brazilian. Actually, I think the Brazilian is really becoming more mainstream,” Lamar explains. “Clients find that once they start getting it done, they can’t imagine not doing it. The clean look and feel becomes part of their beauty regimen. Of course, the same is true with facial, underarm and leg waxing, too—clients are loyal to their regimen.”

However, there’s a shift going on in those who are seeking waxing treatments. Lip, underarm, bikini and leg waxing are still popular for women, but a growing number of spas are seeing men’s needs move into this market, as well. “We are starting to see more men coming in for waxing services,” says Lamar. “We do primarily chest and back waxes, and sometimes the arms.”

Dayan, who specializes in male hair removal services at Emerge, sees the trend only getting bigger because there seem to be fewer preconceived notions or qualms about male hair removal. “Men do come in and get their backs, shoulders and eyebrows waxed,” says Dayan. “More and more are coming in because it’s getting more fashionable and more normal. We work with a wide range of ages who want to look better. From college-age to grandfathers—there isn’t any set group that’s wanting it, it’s all types. Big, strong guys, professional guys, more metrosexual guys—there aren’t any guidelines. We do see most men for back and shoulder waxes, but then eyebrows second, and neck, chest and ears follow.”

Educating female and male clients about what to expect from waxing is a good way to start treatments, and often, reassurance is necessary. “A lot of men relate waxing to that scene in the movie The 40-Year-Old Virgin, but, for the most part, they are just fine,” says Dayan. “There is definitely a sense of fear that first time and the first pull isn’t very fun, but most men handle it really well.”
Making sure estheticians know a client’s expectations from the outset is important, too. Discussing how much hair should or should not be left, as well as any sculptural grooming, should always be done before the service. Dayan says, “Eyebrow waxing is another popular male waxing treatment, and I always assure clients they won’t end up looking like Joey from the television show Friends. We won’t overly sculpt them—most men just want to be groomed and look professional, so that’s what we offer.”

So although waxing maintains its presence in the hair removal business, spas shouldn’t take advantage of clients’ comfort with it. Continuing to update materials, training, techniques and other wax offerings ensures that you aren’t coasting by on your waxing laurels.

Natural alternatives
Waxing isn’t the only hair removal offering that has clients booking regular appointments at their favorite spas though. Jennifer Pesce, brand director with Shobha, notes more people are seeking other methods of hair removal, and some are looking for a more naturalistic path. “Hair removal is definitely going in two different directions: either all-natural or all high-tech,” Pesce notes, and she leans toward offering the more holistic options: treatments and training for the hair removal techniques of sugaring, threading and tweezing. Although most people are familiar with tweezing, or removing hairs with tweezers, threading and sugaring are just starting to re-emerge legitimate offerings.

Pesce describes the threading hair removal technique as using a thread that has been twisted like a miniature lasso to loop around the hair and pull it out from the root. “The method we use for eyebrows and other facial hair is threading,” she explains. “Threading and tweezing are good for sensitive skin. You have to be careful with eyebrow waxing because the process can rip off the upper layers of the skin, leaving the client bright pink even several days afterward. Threading has minimal contact with the skin, and I find any signs of irritation go away within an hour.” This less-invasive method makes it preferable for facial hair removal.

For other areas where more extensive hair removal is done, Pesce suggests using sugaring, a waxing alternative. “Sugaring is somewhat similar to waxing, but instead of using resin and chemicals, it’s sugar, water, glycerin and lemon juice,” she says. “The mixture sticks to hair, but not the skin, and it’s less irritating, so people really like that.” Sugaring is often done for underarm, leg, chest, back and bikini-area hair removal services, leaving them smooth and hair-free for a period of time, but not permanently. Pesce says, “Waxing and sugaring do take the hair out at the root. It will grow back less in time, but it will still grow back.”

Electric options
If you are looking to go high-tech when getting rid of unwanted hair, you likely have clients interested in the option of permanent hair removal. In the past, electric methods were plagued by the expense and time restrictions involved, including high-priced equipment and training for a spa’s team—not to mention the investment on the clients’ part. Today, a large number of customers are beginning to invest in long-term treatments, such as laser and electrolysis, as hair removal options, making it a much more worthwhile endeavor for spas.

“Electrolysis is a permanent method of hair removal, not just a temporary fix,” says Trudy Brown, founder and owner of Advanced Electrolysis and Laser Care Clinic, Inc., which has locations in High Point and Greensboro, North Carolina. “There are three types of electrolysis. The first is thermolysis, where a thin filament or probe inserted into the opening of the hair follicle uses a high-frequency current that basically heats the moisture in the lower portion of the follicle and desiccates it. Then there’s electrolysis by theory, which uses direct current to create a chemical destruction of the follicle; and finally, the method of blend, which is a combination of using the high-frequency current with galvanic heat to create that chemical destruction of the follicle.” As a pioneer in permanent hair removal, electrolysis is often seen as a mainstay in the treatment of unwanted hair.

Much of the recent news in electric hair removal tends to center on laser treatments however, as the method is growing considerably in popularity. One reason for this, according to Louis Silberman, founder of the National Laser Institute, is the cost restrictions are actually a lot less than they used to be. “Laser is more mainstream because it became affordable to the masses,” he says. “Before, machines were costing hundreds of thousands of dollars, so spas had to price treatments outrageously just to pay for the equipment. Now that the machines are more affordable, more people are coming to see laser as a better hair removal option.”

Weighing monthly waxing services versus six months of laser treatments, many are also finding a cost benefit in electric hair removal. “The average consumer is doing their homework now, and they can see that laser hair removal can be cheaper in the long term than waxing,” Silberman says. The upfront time and cost expense is something these clients are willing to forfeit now in order to reap the benefits later.
But to go electric, should you choose electrolysis or laser treatments? Brown says you don’t have to decide, explaining that the methods can work in harmony. “Laser doesn’t treat white, gray or colorless hairs because it responds to the melanin coloring in the hair,” she says. “Electrolysis can treat any color, so using laser to do the larger sections, and then going back and getting the grey or white hairs with electrolysis works well, but electrolysis isn’t as feasible for large areas. It is good for smaller areas, such as the eyebrows, because you do have to go into each follicle one by one. That makes it difficult to do electrolysis on the full legs and back.”

However, some clients still may be skittish at the thought of doing away with hair forever. Silberman recommends weighing the options and helping your client to pick and choose a selection that is right for them. “Trends do change, so some people are nervous that they won’t like not having the hair when that happens,” he says. “But then they can choose what they do want permanently gone—like the underarms or the bikini area.”

Permanent hair removal isn’t only of interest to women, however. “More men are interested in laser hair removal and we recommend them to an area plastic surgeon who offers it,” says Dayan. This, of course, brings up the need for training and professionalism when offering these high-tech services. In many states across the nation, laser use in the spa setting is still unregulated. However, for best results, training is a must. When people start zapping around without knowing what they’re doing, Silberman warns, injuries can happen, and you can quickly turn a loyal client into an angry one. Invest in training before offering these laser and electrolysis services because it will pay off later.

Estheticians who are familiar with their laser treatments and terms also simply offer clients a better result. “Laser hair removal works great on all parts of the body, but different skin types require you to use different lasers,” Silberman explains. “For someone whose skin is dark, if they are African-American or of Middle Eastern decent, you’d probably want to use a 1064 nanometer (nm) laser, where the number represents the wavelength. For someone who is light-skinned, you want to use laser with a different wavelength because it has a different melanin absorption, so maybe a 755 nm or 810 nm laser.”

Keeping it clean
Of course, consulting with your clients before any hair removal treatment is always a must. Waxing, laser, electrolysis, sugaring—almost every hair removal service has contraindications. For example, Lamar says, “Some people are just not good candidates for waxing. Checking someone’s health history for prescriptions or other things that could cause bad reactions is something we always do.”

Having a list of preplanned questions to ask and issues that may arise with hair removal treatments is a good starting point when working with clients seeking removal services. “Treatments are the most consistent and safe with lots of prescreening questions, but you also need to ask the right ones,” explains Silberman. Knowing contraindications, medication issues and health-related problems that could result from a hair removal treatment will help stop problems before they start. For example, both Silberman and Brown point out clients on isotretinoin, often used for acne treatment, should not partake in laser or electrolysis hair removal, and people should also avoid the sun before receiving a treatment.
“It’s very important to focus on training your technicians,” recommends Pesce. “Other than having each technician properly licensed according to your state laws, it’s also good to have a process specific for each waxing service you offer. Some spas are just giving their technicians a vat of wax and saying ‘Go try it.’ Training is a great way to make sure you are offering the same service consistently every time.”

For laser and electrolysis hair removal, initial and continuing training can be of particular importance. “You have to have a knowledge of skin relating to lasers,” says Silberman. “Any esthetic professional offering laser hair removal should understand the physicality and safety of lasers; how the light beam works in the skin and affects the hair shaft before giving treatments. You need to understand the why and what—talk the talk and walk the walk.” With the accumulation of a thorough knowledge of skin, esthetics and hair removal techniques, your team will be more trusted and help you bring in more business.

Even spa owners who aren’t trained in hair removal themselves have options for getting the right instruction for their staff. “You don’t have to be an expert yourself,” says Pesce. “You can outsource your training to people who know what they’re doing and how to teach it.”

A final pre-client prep tip to always remember is to keep your hair removal treatments clean. “It’s really important for hair removal to be a sanitary service,” Pesce says. “Make sure your staff is dedicated to cleanliness for themselves, the equipment, the treatment room, everything.”
Once again, this step is an easy way to avoid potentially complicated problems before they arise, and it makes your spa look respectable, healthy and clean—exactly the message you want to convey.
In the treatment room

Once you’ve had the proper training, asked the right questions and created the ideal conditions for a hair removal treatment, the next step is to prepare the client. This can start as simply as paying attention to the area you’re conducting the service in and the way you offer it.
“We have a dedicated waxing suite, but we also have wax equipment in each treatment room. That way, if the waxing suite is booked, the esthetician can still offer the client a lip or brow wax during their facial,” says Lamar.

Emerge has dedicated an entire floor of its spa solely to men’s services, with Dayan noting that its male clientele enjoys this.“The men are more comfortable in the men’s area. Its more discreet, their own private space where they don’t have to walk through a waiting room full of women in just a towel,” she says.

Next, prepping the client for the procedure should involve making the skin ready for hair removal, and partnering hair removal with other services is a great way to introduce spa methods for getting rid of unwanted hair, showing clients how quick and simple it can be. “In terms of body treatments, you can offer body hair removal especially when you are doing body treatments, such as scrubs. The exfoliation of the scrub sloughs off dead skin and helps to free ingrown hairs for optimal removal,” says Pesce. “With facials or hairstyling, you can suggest eyebrow maintenance to really give a polished, final look. If you do provide hair removal while the client is getting a facial, though, it’s best to do the facial first, and then just tweezing or threading, because deep cleansing afterward could make the area really sensitive.”
Other hair removal post-care tips are to advise the client to stay out of the sun and allow the area to rest for a few days. Pesce says, “I always tell our clients that it takes two to tango, so we’ll be doing our part and they need to be doing their part. For after-care, I basically talk about the big nos: no sun, no sauna, no steam and no sex for bikini treatments for 48 hours after getting the hair removed. The skin is sensitive then, and it’s more susceptible to potential infection. Then, after the first 48 hours, they should be exfoliating on a daily basis and possibly using an ingrown hair relief lotion. But I always tell clients that 48 hours of rest is best.”

Specifically for electric hair removal treatments, Brown also notes, “Post-care, clients should use an antibiotic cream on the area following the treatment, and they need to keep their hands off the area. Also, no microdermabrasion, chemical peels, glycolics or tretinoin should be used on the area.” Giving the skin time to rest and heal is ideal in order to stay safe, so be sure you let clients know they can’t hit the beach immediately.

Finally, once the hair is gone, how long should it stay that way? For treatments such as electrolysis and laser, obviously there will be a longer-term result, but with alternate offerings, such as waxing and tweezing, it’s often the client’s prerogative. “I get the question a lot, ‘How often do I need to come in?’ ” says Dayan. “It’s a personal choice, depending on whether they want the hair to just constantly be gone or not, but usually I see people coming more often, especially during warmer seasons, anywhere from once a month to every two months.”

The growth of hair removal
As an area of spa offerings that continues to earn its keep, hair removal can be an integral part of a business’s menu. “As a spa owner, I encourage other spa owners to understand the significant amount of profit in offering waxing services,” says Lamar. “Take the time to talk with your clients about providing hair removal, because you are doing them a disservice if you don’t take care of what they need. Not to mention that you are losing out on income.”
Ask clients their opinions about your options, as well as other menu items they’d like to see. Brown recommends keeping clients as informed as possible. “I wish spas would better educate clients on all the different hair removal methods,” she says. “They should know about the effectiveness of mixing treatments.” And by combining a trustworthy environment, well-trained estheticians, knowledge about the techniques and products used, ideas about how to pair removal treatments with complementary body and facial services, and a customer-friendly approach, these services can keep your clients coming back for hair removal—as well as the other services on your menu—for years to come.

This article was originally published in the December 2008 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Editor’s note: The opinions expressed in this Viewpoint are those of the author and not necessarily those of Skin Inc. magazine or Aesthetic VideoSource.

My name is Jason … from that, you can tell I’m a guy. I’m also an esthetician. That puts me in a small group of other men who work in the skin care industry as estheticians. If you’re a guy and an esthetician, you’ll know exactly where I’m going with this column. If you’re a female and an esthetician, I invite you to read on and discover a whole new perspective on skin care from a guy’s point of view.

I’ve been an esthetician for five years, and I work in a terrific spa in San Francisco that provides services for a health club and a five-star hotel. I only mention this because I have a wide array of clientele, ranging from athletes to hotel guests, both male and female. So I’ve had to learn how to give facials and other skin care treatments, including waxing services, to all kinds of people. And I’ve had to learn how to do all of this by myself.
There’s very little support or education available to address the male esthetician. Even in esthetic school, I had to adjust everything to the fact that I am a man. Simple things, such as the size of my hands, the pressure I used during facial massage, glove sizes, extractions, everything was different for me than what I was being taught in school and what I saw my female colleagues doing.

And then there’s waxing and the whole “male waxing a female” conundrum. I like to refer to it as Pandora’s wax pot. Is it appropriate for me to be giving a female client a bikini wax? The five-star hotel I work for says “No way,” and I have to respect its rules. But I often ask myself, “Why not?” I’ve found that some of my female clients would rather have me do their waxing. They trust me, they know they are safe and in a professional environment. Their modesty is completely and strictly maintained both for their comfort and mine. I mention waxing as a classic example of how our industry really hasn’t addressed the issue.

There should be standards set and strict training required so that male estheticians are accepted in all arenas of skin care. I find our profession to be sexist in some very subtle and very obvious ways. For example, in advertising, you never see a man giving a client a facial; however, any time I see laser being advertised, it’s often a man doing the procedure. Are there not any female dermatologists out there? Are there only female estheticians? Of course not. So why do estheticians put up with this blatant role-playing. It can only hurt us in the long run because we are basically allowing advertisers to tell the general public who should and should not be getting or giving skin care treatments.

Another example of sexism in the spa industry is spas that are overly feminine, including the decor, the menus, the treatments and the products being sold. Why do spa owners effectively scare away male clients and make male estheticians seem out of place working at their facility? I have struggled for years trying to get my spa to butch it up a bit. Still, to this day, every client is handed a fluffy white robe. Male clients are asked to go into the men’s locker room with all the other guys, change in and out of their workout gear, don a fluffy white robe, and walk back to the waiting area. Ladies, guys don’t like that! Our menu colors used to be pink and light blue with cursive print. Ladies, guys don’t like that! The name of one of our spa’s main skin care lines means “beautiful woman.” Try convincing a male to buy from that line.

It’s not just my spa either. The majority of spas effectively discriminate against men and male employees. In any other profession, there would be outrage, but in this industry, nobody seems to care or even notice. Hairstylists are men and women, and the majority of salons are unisex on purpose. Makeup artists are both male and female—almost 50/50. There’s an even amount of male and female massage therapists, and it’s common to ask a client who books a massage whether they would prefer a male or female therapist. Why is this not the same for facials?

The skin care arena has collectively said “no” to men as both estheticians and clients. I’m also a flight attendant and have been flying for 25 years. When I started flying in the mid-1980s, there wasn’t a trace of sexism among crew members, and that was a huge hurdle for men to jump back then. So when I became an esthetician in 2003, I expected the same. I was very shocked to find myself in a female-dominated career that had no idea what to do with me as an esthetician, from how to train me to what uniform I should wear.

I was more than used to working with women, so it didn’t bother me at first. But now I see my personal profits being scared away by an antiquated paradigm that states that only girls like skin care. Profits are being lost because of this, and I believe we all need to focus on making our industry unisex from now on. I challenge industry publications to publish more articles for male estheticians, to show men giving facials, to talk about men and waxing, to encourage men to join the ranks of professional estheticians and to convince skin care lines to tone down the feminine attitude. Don’t get me wrong, I love women and I love working with and for women; I just want men to feel comfortable, too. It’s only fair and it’s good business.

This article was originally published in the December 2008 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

The rapid growth of waxing treatments in the health and beauty industries is largely due to waxing specialists becoming well-versed in advanced waxing techniques, while complementing them with advanced delivery systems that offer more hygienic approaches. Technicians are also going that extra mile to educate their clients on the importance of after-care by offering a selection of retail take-home products.
Waxing is an extremely safe way to remove unwanted hair and it is one of the most lucrative treatments offered by a spa, due to its low upfront costs. An $11 can of wax may return up to $900 in services. So, if your establishment is not waxing, it may be time to consider it. And here is how to get started.

Waxing systems
Buying a pre-assembled waxing starter kit is no different than buying a car. It is an investment, and you should take every step to research your purchase thoroughly. Do not just seek the most inexpensive one. Examine its features and benefits. Check that the equipment is listed and tested by Underwriters Laboratories (UL)—a trusted product compliance source—and that is it easy to keep clean. Ask yourself how hygienic the system is, and does it look sturdy enough, because this system will be put to the test once you get going.
A good kit will contain all the necessary pre- and post-waxing products—wax strips and applicators; two to three types of waxes consisting of a cream, honey and hard wax; equipment cleaner; wax heater; training element; warranty card; multilingual written instructions; tweezers; powder; wax collars; wax removal oil; and equipment cleaner. If the kit contains posters and window decals, that is a bonus.
Do you have any idea of what waxing method you want to offer? Some of the most popular options include the following.

Pot method. This method features wax that is heated to the correct temperature and consistency in a UL-approved wax heating device before application. The wax is removed from the pot with a plastic, stainless or wooden disposable waxing applicator and then applied to the hair on the area of the body to be waxed. This method gives the therapist more versatility and control because both soft and hard waxes can be heated in this type of system to accommodate services from legs to eyebrows. Pot waxes can remain hygienic if the lid is kept on the system when it is not in use and if the technician uses a clean spatula with each application.

Roll-on method. This method is becoming increasingly popular because it enables the therapist to deliver a variety of cream or honey soft waxes onto the skin in an even, consistent manner with little to no waste. It is ideal for speed waxing of the legs, chest, back and arms. Some systems now provide wax cartridges with interchangeable heads, ranging from extra small for those hard-to-reach areas, such as ears; small for facial waxing; and large for the legs, chest and back. The method is hygienic because a fresh applicator head can be attached to the cartridge for each client. Roller waxing systems work with soft wax only. Be sure to choose a system that heats the cartridge or tube at a steady temperature during wax applications.
Wax optionsThere are many waxes on the market that are available in different sizes, colors, textures and even fragrances; however, it can be a challenge for even the most skilled therapist to choose the right wax for each job. Following are the different wax options available.

Stripless waxes. Also known in the industry as hard wax, which can only be heated via the pot method. Hard waxes tend to come in solid colors and are blended with rosins for slower setting times, giving the therapist a little more control with the removal. In some cases, plasticides are added for additional flexibility and control. Stripless waxes are ideal for Brazilian bikini procedures, as well as for underarms and facial waxing. Strip waxes run at a lower temperature than soft waxes and, as they are applied, they dry gently, shrinking around the hair shaft, resulting in successful hair removal with little to no irritation. Hard waxes are removed without a waxing strip, hence the name stripless.

Strip waxes. Also known as soft waxes, these are most commonly used with roll-on waxing systems. Mainly composed of resins to increase setting time, strip waxes are often blended with additional essential oils for special skin conditions and types, and come in many varieties. Soft waxes are applied onto the skin in the thinnest layer possible in the direction of hair growth. This is followed by the removal of the wax in the opposite direction with a fabric or paper strip, depending upon the therapist’s preference. Strip waxes can be used on any area of the body.

Fabric versus paper strip. Fabric strips are generally made from some type of bleached or unbleached cotton, are extremely flexible, and some consider them to be less painful and, therefore, ideal for facial waxing. Paper strips are more rigid and more suitable for speed waxing. They are economical because they can be utilized as a continuous-use strip during a leg-waxing procedure.

Post-care for waxing
There is no question that waxing has been one of the strongest hair removal trends for decades, however there are often complaints after a treatment due to improper post-care. Common concerns include, “I had my eyebrows waxed yesterday and have a nasty rash where the wax was applied. There is lots of redness and some bumps,” or “I just had my chest waxed yesterday and I have this terrible breakout with redness, swelling and dozens of whiteheads all over.

This article was originally published in the July 2008 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All right reserved.

If you would like to learning waxing techniques, Aesthetic VideoSource has Waxing DVD’s on a variety of different topics. Eyebrow Waxing, Body Waxing for men and women and Brazilian Waxing techniques. Visit us today and view free excerpts of our educational DVD’s. Our videos show all the above mentioned types of waxing.

The recent buzz about a potential ban on Brazilian bikini waxing in New Jersey is giving bikini waxing a bad rap. There is a lot of conflicting and incorrect information that has been circulating resulting many to fear getting a Brazilian or even a basic bikini wax. Based on many years in the beauty world as a hair removal expert, Shobha knows just how critical it is for all those undergoing a waxing treatment to be aware of the necessary steps to have a rewarding and safe experience.

Shobha Tummala, founder and CEO, wholeheartedly believes in this level of awareness, “We provide our clients with a list of precautions prior to receiving any treatments. In fact, we inform people that waxing can cause minor bumps, rashes, etc. – more specifically, it can potentially result in the temporary enlargement of hair follicles that can allow bacteria, normally residing on the skin, to enter the follicles and cause superficial or deep skin infections. So, it is extremely important to follow strict hygienic practices during the waxing treatment as well as the first 48 hours after the treatment.”
Pre-treatment
1.    Sanitize your spa. Similar to preventing infection during a manicure or pedicure, waxing facilities must be clean and strict sanitary processes must be followed to provide uncontaminated supplies, eliminating the potential for infection during the treatment process. Use clean, disposable implements or hospital-grade disinfectant for any tools that are reused.
2.    Steer clear of double dipping.The nauseating truth is that double-dipping is common practice in wax application. This method uses the same spatula for the entire treatment, re-dipping the used applicator back into the vat of wax. This contaminated wax is then reused for treatments on other individuals. Unfortunately, this technique can increase the chances of potentially harmful bacteria spreading from one client to another, which is particularly disturbing when dealing with the bikini zone. Make sure your spa is following no double dip guidelines for all sugaring and waxing treatments. If your facility does not offer such a policy, allow clients to request a new can of wax at the start of their treatments to avoid contaminated supplies that have been used on other clients.
3.    License your professionals. By law, wax practitioners must be licensed with the state to perform professional treatments. This license should be displayed in the place of work. For New York State, you can check online to make sure your practitioner is current with his/her paperwork online. Check out your state’s rules.
4.    Advice clients to be menstruation-free. Generally, it is best for clients to get a bikini wax at least a few days before or after their periods. The closer the treatment is to the actual period, the more sensitive the body becomes because the immune system is lowered, making it more susceptible to infection.
5.    Give patch tests. Before providing a full treatment, if the client has never waxed previously, it is best to try a small area (known as a patch test) first. Wait 48 hours between the test and full treatment to see if the client has any adverse reactions.
Aftercare
1.    Advise client to be comfortable. The bikini area is one of the most sensitive parts of the body. Tell clients to wear loose, comfortable clothing after treatments to avoid irritation caused by friction or rubbing.
2.    Expect to be sensitive. For 48 hours after the treatment, the area will be more sensitive than usual. Advise clients to apply cold compresses and an anti-inflammatory cream, such as hydrocortisone, if the skin is especially tender.
3.    Use warm water. Ask clients to hold off on taking hot baths for at least two hours, but they should bathe after waxing to further clean the area. They should resist the sauna and steam room for at least 48 hours.
4.    Clients should abstain from sex. Medical experts recommend waiting 48 hours after any type of bikini wax before engaging in sex. This time period is when your body can be most susceptible to outside bacteria, which can potentially cause an infection. For the client’s safety and health, it is better to abstain, but is not required. It is really a personal choice, so just ask clients to keep in mind that the skin does need some time to recover.
5.    Client should avoid UV rays. Steer clear of tanning beds and sunbathing for at least 48 hours, and always where sun protection.
6.    Clients should watch out for acidic products. Clients need to refrain from the use of any products containing acid, such as alpha hydroxy, glycolic acid and salicylic acid, for 48 hours. Acids, although helpful for exfoliating the skin and helping prevent bumps and ingrown hairs after hair removal, can be irritating to the skin during the first 48 hours, since the waxing process already exfoliates the top layers of skin during the treatment.

This article was originally published in the April 2009 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Aesthetic VideoSource has produced a comprehensive educational video Advanced Brazilian Waxing which covers this topic in depth. Find the video here.

Body hair is a prevalent issue for the spa-going public, and its removal translates into one of the most lucrative services available. Practicing under the “if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it” concept, hair removal methods basically have remained the same for some time, with the most popular ones usually being waxing, electrolysis and laser hair removal.
This isn’t breaking news—in fact, most spas offer at least one of these techniques due to their high demand and amazing return-on-investment.

Waxing

Because of the increasing popularity and presence of these techniques, you must identify ways to distinguish your business and its hair removal treatments from the spa’s down the street. Bottom line: The extras make all the difference. From cooling devices to ceiling-hung TVs, spas are making hair removal a better encounter every day.
Waxing
Waxing is a temporary hair removal method that involves pulling hair out from the root, resulting in hairless areas for three to eight weeks. Most of the body can be waxed, including the back, bikini area, legs and eyebrows.
Comfort amenities can be provided to waxing clients in order to transform what many view as an uncomfortable-yet-necessary experience into an almost enjoyable one.
Comfort amenities. From pain-relieving creams to waxes featuring aromatherapeutic benefits, the waxing experience is becoming more pleasant. Over-the-counter and professional topical numbing creams and sprays are available containing lidocaine and benzocaine, which help take the sting out of waxing if applied 15–20 minutes before the service.
Many waxes are beginning to include specific ingredients to address skin issues, as well. For example, soy is becoming more popular in wax formulas due to its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. Waxes also are available in an ever-increasing variety of fragrances—from floral to fruity—fostering aromatherapeutic benefits based on the power of scent.
Also, consider the environment in which your waxing services are provided. Is it utilitarian, or is it a room that creates an experience? “Make hair removal a ‘treatment,’ not a simple, quick, uncomfortable experience that a person has to do,” encourages Michelle D’Allaird, CIDESCO diplomate and owner of the Aesthetic Science Institute in Latham, New York. Consider referencing feng shui and incorporating elements into the room that inspire a sense of peace—running water, fireplaces, a stone path, calming music. Another route is the more modern, more utilitarian one that New York’s Completely Bare subscribes to: TV. Ceiling-hung televisions provide a great distraction for hair removal clients.

Electrolysis and laser hair removal

Laser Hair Removal

Electrolysis is electrical epilation for the purpose of permanently removing hair. In this method, an electrologist places an extremely thin metal probe into a hair follicle to deliver electricity that damages the hair-generating areas, either through the galvanic method, which forms caustic lye, or the thermolysis method, which utilizes overheating. These two methods also can be administered separately or blended.
The most recent introduction into the hair removal market is laser hair removal. Its popularity continues to grow with the increase of medical spas around the country. In fact, the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) recently identified laser hair removal as the third most popular noninvasive cosmetic procedure for women and the second most popular one for men in 2006.
The method provides permanent hair removal and, because a large area can be treated at once, it can be cost-effective. A low-energy beam is absorbed by melanin present in the hair follicle shaft. Because hair cycles as it grows, repeated treatments must occur in order to destroy approximately 80% of hair. Ruby, alexandrite and diode were the first lasers approved for hair reduction, and intense pulsed light (IPL) systems also are used, though mainly on light-skinned, dark-haired individuals. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), this is because dark pigments in the skin cannot absorb the light they emit. Lasers with longer wavelengths, such as the Nd:YAG laser, can treat darker skin types.
Specific relief for clients who endure permanent hair removal methods comes in the form of cooling devices and time-savers.

This article was originally published in the June 2007 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Speed, efficiency, ease, client comfort and smooth skin—these are the goals when performing any Brazilian service. Accomplishing these results requires a plan of attack.
The most important consideration when  brazilian waxing is sanitation. Clients are becoming more and more sanitation savvy and will be on the lookout for anything that appears unclean. With that in mind, you should always wear gloves and never double dip, which is the practice of using the same stick and dipping it in the wax pot over and over for one or more clients. No stick should be dipped in the wax more than once. Dip, apply wax, toss and grab a clean stick.
Plan of attack
Without the proper plan in place, the waxing process could turn into chaos. It doesn’t matter if you work from back to front or front to back. What matters is how you work. The object is to work smarter, not harder. This is accomplished by developing a strategy that you will follow each time you perform your Brazilian service.
Knowing where to start, what to wax and in what order to wax it takes away the guesswork and allows you to focus on the task at hand, and flow from beginning to end with ease.
What is a Brazilian?
A traditional Brazilian removes all hair in the back and front, except for a strip of hair approximately two fingers in width right down the center of the abdomen. A bare Brazilian removes all hair from the back and the front. It doesn’t really matter what you call it, just make sure you can explain it.
What wax to use
This is a personal choice. Some estheticians like to use soft wax in this area, and some prefer hard wax. Choose what you feel most comfortable with and remember, all waxes are not created equal and neither are their pre- and post-products. Each wax will vary to some degree, so it is important that you know the wax you are working with and use the recommended pre- and post-treatment products because they are specifically formulated to accompany each wax.
Female bare Brazilian
Before you begin, remember that when waxing the Brazilian area, it’s best to work from the outside in. This means that waxing should start on the perimeters and work in toward the center of the body.
Another reminder: Be sure to pay attention to hair growth patterns in each area, and keep a firm pressure when applying your wax. Your job is to remove the hair, and to do this, you must coat the hair and follicle with wax. If your pressure is too light, the hair will remain and/or break off.

Step 1. Use pre-wax cleanser to cleanse the Brazilian area. If your wax protocol calls for it, apply any additional treatments to protect the skin.
Step 2. Start on the buttocks if they are hairy, then work in toward the anus. Remove as much hair as you can while you are back there; this will save time when you have your client turn over to do the front.
Step 3. After helping her turn over to the front, start with the bikini line: The traditional line is 2–3” to the

Template & Color

outside of the leg crease.
Step 4. Then move to the labia. Again, work from the outside crease of the labia in toward the center. You may choose to tackle this area in two to three sections, as it is more sensitive.
Step 5. Next, work on the outside sections of the lower abdomen: This is the triangle section.
Step 6. After this, work on the center of the abdomen, more commonly known as the landing strip (down the center). If you are doing a standard Brazilian, you will leave this section intact.
Step 7. Clean up strays by spot waxing. Tweezing is irritating to your client. You don’t need to be obsessive about this step; you will not remove every hair, so just let it go.
Step 8. Clean up your client using your post-wax oil to remove any residue. You can apply this with your gloved hands, and work any little bits off using a waxing strip. Then follow up with your post-wax calming treatment.
Step 9. Don’t forget to recommend post-wax take-home care and re-book her for their next appointment.

This article was originally published in the November 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine and is being reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Ashlie Long goes over so unique ways to do a brazilian wax. In Aesthetic VideoSource’s new brazilian waxing dvd, she shows you how to do colors, templates and different shapes. Why not give your clients something new to try? Order today!